My view of the issue is the same as my view of most of life -- there are pros and cons to everything, and no one or perfect answer.
We've seen the overtourims ourself up close and personal and hate it and try to avoid it.
Yet we also write about our travels, including the less well traveled places we veer toward as much as possible.
I think -- hope -- that the good of travel from better understanding other peoples and cultures, as well as the environment outweighs the bad.
Is that wishful thinking? Maybe.
But now into our seventh year of traveling full-time, I feel like I have a deeper and better understanding of the world than if we'd just stayed in the U.S.
Thank you Michael! I've also found framing things in terms of tradeoffs the most helpful. And I too agree and can't help but hope that the benefits of exploring the world outweigh the negatives. Thank you for engaging and sharing your thoughts. Safe and happy travels to you. Cheers!
I am a travel advisor. I have worked in travel and tourism since 1991, and it is an industry that employs a mind-blowing number of people, from back-of-the-house staff at hotels, cruise lines, airports, restaurants to the front facing staff like myself who plan travel for clients to flight attendants who are on planes for your safety. I work at a travel company that is part of one of the major consortia, Virtuoso, and I am a member of the Sustainability Community. The focus on this community is working with those companies who have a commitment to sustainable tourism.
Overtourism is a real problem and an ethical dilemma for those of us in the business. Venice has introduced a modest fee for day-trippers (5 euros) which I think isn't enough to help combat the problem. Overbuilt hotel zones (Nicoya peninsula in Costa Rica; anywhere you look on Maui; the Yucatan in Mexico; the area surrounding Puerto Vallarta; these are only a handful of locations) create more of a problem than we realize. People are told it helps the local economy, but does it? I was on a cruise pre-Covid in the Caribbean as an educational trip (experiencing the cruise line, some hotel inspections) but at one port, doing some local market shopping, I found many of the "authentic" items being sold actually were made in China and Southeast Asia. This is overtourism.
Ethical companies that practice sustainable tourism follow certain core principles: to celebrate culture, support local economies, and protect the planet. There are notable hotels that work toward restoring ecosystems: Ted Turner Reserves in New Mexico renew ecosystems that were damaged by logging, mining, and agriculture; Nayara Tented Camp near Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica has restored local rainforest which have allowed a focus on rewilding animals that had disappeared from the area - a return of sloths and monkeys, for example.
Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda is a shining example - the few hotels in that region have restored habitat that had been destroyed by coffee plantations which has seen an increase in population of the critically endangered Mountain Gorillas. While still endangered, their numbers are growing almost faster than habitat restoration can manage. Rwanda's Volcanoes National Park charges a hefty fee of $1500 per person per day to trek to see the gorillas, and strictly limits the number of permits issued on a given day. The guides, all hotel staff, are all from the local community and a huge amount of the hotel profits go back into the local community for schools and health clinics. The number of hotels and the size of the hotels is also strictly limited.
Not everyone who travels needs or wants to work with a travel advisor like myself. Frankly, far too many travel professionals are "agents", order-takers who rely on mass market cruises and all-inclusive massive resorts for their business. But those of us who take the time to research, and to pick and choose who we work with supporting companies that we know work sustainably, provide a service that is invaluable for a surprising number of people. Not all of us are the problem, although there are far too many who are. Part of my job is to educate my clients about the solutions. There are companies I will not work with at all. I actively support the ones who adhere to solutions.
This is a fantastic supplement with a lot of great information for all of us to reflect on! Given how varied the effects of tourism can be across the planet, I imagine that it is a monumental task to keep track of the basic travel information for all these destinations for prospective travelers and even more challenging to do it ethically and sustainably. Thank you for sharing your story and thank you for the services you provide Judith!
I think it's just pure laziness and greed to not do the research and support what's right. Kareem Abdul-Jabbar's substack today talks about the dangers of ignoring rising oceans - and frankly, this is one of the many things we need to focus on and how tourism can help combat climate disasters, because we can, and we should.
One of the reasons that I travel much less than I used to is that crowds make me cranky. The emptiest gallery in the museum is where you'll find me. It draws my interest BECAUSE it's empty.
Oh absolutely! I'm right there with you. Even if I go out to grab lunch and show up and there's a long line or a long wait, I'll do an about-face and go back home to settle for a PB&J at home. Ha!
Lol. In May I'm going to what is allegedly one of Italy's least visited major museums. Handwringing articles have been written bemoaning how (relatively) empty it is. I'm so excited I can't even tell you!
That sounds awesome! Years ago I was able to visit the National Archaeological Museum in Florence and recall it being nearly vacant on the day of my visit and it was incredible. I hope you enjoy your experience there. Cheers!
A really provocative and thoughtful piece that raises many questions that seem difficult if not impossible to answer.
I remember visiting Yosemite annually with my parents in the ‘50s and ‘60s. Many of the roads were narrow, 2-lane stretches with sheer drops on all sides that had my dad swearing as he skirted the perilous twists and turns. But there were no crowds on the trails to the glorious views. You might feel like you had discovered the place.
Something to be said for 1) bad roads, 2) fewer people 3) no social media to tempt the masses.
I almost never go to Yosemite anymore, especially the Valley, though I still think it one of the world’s great wonders. I don’t want to be crushed at what it’s become. Other parks we used to love have also become overrun, including Zion and Moab. It’s a shame.
Thank you! I've been thrilled to see the attention this piece is getting and I'm really enjoying everyone's comments. I have not been to Yosemite, but have visited in Zion and my wife and I used to visit Moab frequently when we lived in Colorado. I think we got lucky there because we didn't experience too many crowds. Zion, on the other hand, was extremely crowded. We were lucky to make it to the Angel's Landing trailhead very early in the morning and get up before the crowds and heat struck. It ended up being a wonderful experience, but so much of that seems to depend on crowd size. But even getting a backcountry permit in Zion was difficult.
As you say this issue of how to alleviate stress on crowded places seems intractable but I wonder how much might be resolved if we put more effort in to things like encouraging people to travel to lesser known public lands or to visit places in the off-season. I've been to Mesa Verde and Chaco Canyon in the off-season and it felt like I was the only one there so I know these things are possible in some places but I think getting more folks to spread out and experience lesser known places on other public lands could be part of the solution. But that also probably comes with a consideration of the downstream effects to those places as well. Thank you for taking the time to engage and share your experiences Ruth!
When researching my trip to Oahu, every blog seemed to be filled with the same 3-5 hikes, with all claiming that Diamond Head was a 'must do' while on the island. While I'm generally okay with each person decided whether or not to geotag and believe there are cases to be made for not doing so for safety and other things, I wonder if it would be more effective TO share other hikes- more lists, more ideas- top 15 hikes on Oahu instead of top 3... perhaps the special hike would have more than 4 people on it but it would likely not be crazy crowded since it doesn't offer amenities, paved paths, gift shop, etc. and maybe Diamond Head would be a little less crowded too.
I think that is a great point worth reflecting on more and ties into what I'm thinking about in terms of how we better orchestrate ways to spread more people out in a given area and what the consequences and ethics of that might be. To use Diamond Head (DH) as an example, if many travel blogs and advertisers started to deemphasize DH while also bragging up other places, would that help spreading people out? What might be the effects? I can't help but wonder about places that have established incentives. DH, I presume, now has an embedded structure with a predictable revenue stream, job securities, and so forth, so many places like this, at minimum, don't have much of an incentive to change and encourage visitors to go elsewhere if it will disrupt that structure even if they acknowledge how unbearable crowds may be to handle. So it relies on people outside the structure, as you say, to encourage travelers to spread out. But that still comes with unforeseen consequences that are difficult to predict to some extent.
I think there are several ways and ideas of travelling, there are people who look for adventures, some look for knowledge, others for Instagramable places, others for relaxation and everything organised, and some who can't afford to travel. Based on that there are different types of offers, and there are different types of travel bloggers too. I think travel bloggers should raise more awareness about these problems and topics, but it's also true that it is not the only puzzle piece.
Fair points! I agree that recognizing the diversity of ways we all engage with places is important to have in mind and I'm hopeful that we can continue to create a world that appeals to the kind of adventure each of us wants. I suspect a lot of it comes down to honing in on the concept of time management, i.e., the seasons and times people travel, both from the perspective of the individual planning their trips to any overarching bureaucracy that is in control of public lands. While I think a lot are already tackling this problem, we might envision a greater call to action from bloggers, travel advisors, and those overseeing public lands to encourage people to say travel in the off-season or perhaps advertise lesser known trails and points of interest that can accommodate a few more people in the hopes of spreading crowds out. As you say, it is definitely a puzzle.
such a thought provoking piece! I really, really enjoyed it! I grew up on Cape Cod (hello triple the population in the summer) and only getting worse, but we always knew where to go to avoid the crowds. I am sharing my guides on here and in my hero post I remarked: I can forge beyond crowds to find the raw, unspoiled, life affirming shores and dunes. but guess what? it takes work and planning to get there! and then I always encourage visits in the off season. i just visited Kennebunkport, Maine in February and what a lovely time to go! as far as Oahu - we hiked up on the north shore and our hike (that I also didn't share) sounded relatively similar to your secret hike. we parked at an elementary school and found the hidden path.... I'm into more of that! figuring out that there is a way for everyone to have unique experiences and less check it off the list.
Thank you! I'm thrilled to hear this. Absolutely, much work (and trial and error) is needed to figure out how to forge beyond the crowds, as you put it. Well said! I think encouraging visits in the off-season is key to discovering how remarkable many places are. Some of my best memories to some of our national parks are from times where I visited in the off-season. Thanks for sharing!
Great writing, as always. I'm going to talk to your father in law about doing a program for Rotary. he might have more pull now! Would love to talk when you've got a chance.
So will the best hikes be reserved for those who are "in the know"? I'm not sure that is a great solution.
We don't all want the same hiking experience. As observed in many of our national parks, many of us are most comfortable with the popular, crowded, short, paved trail. Most of us seem wired to follow the crowds to places like The Great Smoky Mountains NP while foregoing plenty of other appealing, nearby, hiking options.
Due to space, Hawaii is probably somewhat unique. But, back on the mainland, there is enough public land to drastically increase the infrastructure needed to provide additional, quality experiences ranging from short, paved, hikes to waterfalls or overlooks to week long, challenging, back country treks.
Whether that is a solution or not I don't know either but I think that is already the reality in a lot of places. When someone lives in a place, say Steamboat Spring, locals learn quickly how to avoid the crowds and likely keep the less traveled ski runs and trails to themselves but word quickly gets out eventually like with the hot springs which is now so crowded that it's incredibly challenging to even get a spot there anymore for visitors and locals alike (however being local there, I do have a secret about the place that I'll choose not to share at this time, wink wink).
That's a good point too. Not everyone is wanting the same experience, although I'd question whether many want to be bumper-to-bumper driving the loop in Yellowstone NP if they didn't have to. Maybe it all comes down to how we can engineer our time better. The paved route around the base of Devils Tower NM is often crowded but accessible and for those who want a longer, more isolated hike there are several others to choose from. Angels Landing in Zion NP is a good case in point too. It was an awesome hike the time we went but I'd argue was only great because we were fortunate to be able to get to it very early in the morning. Had we found ourselves there mid-day in the middle of the summer, it would have been crowded and miserable for most. Also, getting a backcountry permit there is even challenging and excludes even the most diligent planner.
I'd be hesitant to endorse the call for more infrastructure development on public lands though and would need to reflect more, but my initial thought is that ultimately leads to other downstream negative effects, e.g., more bureaucracy, added costs, destruction of the landscape.
If we believe that getting people out into nature is a public good (such as K-12 education) then government should make it happen. Much of it should happen, and is happening, at the local/state level. Multi use trails are being built and green spaces are being set aside. However, as indicated by crowd size, people also want more "wow" outdoor experiences. Part of that should involve coaxing some of the demand from the most popular spots to other existing parks/monuments/forests with excess capacity. However, in addition, while leaving wilderness areas untouched, government should add infrastructure so as to increase overall visitor capacity.
Always an interesting conversation. We were lucky, btw, and spent 2 months in Honolulu during our first year of nomadding. Feb and March of 2021 when it was relatively quiet. The trek to Diamond Head didn’t require a reservation and we walked there from our apartment. There were folks on the trail but not a swarm of them.
But, in response to your question, we find ourselves not really attracted to the “big” attractions or over-touristed areas. Even in Paris we lived in a quieter neighborhood and visited smaller museums and quiet parks (to be fair, it was our 4th time there). In Barcelona, we lived a few blocks from the Sagrada but didn’t go. We have no interest in Machu Picchu or Angkor Wat. Bali Hai isn’t calling to us. We went to Venice years ago and don’t want or need to go again. We don’t want to join the throngs going to Antarctica (and can’t afford it anyway). I was lucky enough to see the pyramids and the Acropolis when I was young. This is not a calculated moral stance as much as a desire to avoid crowds and lines. We lean towards the subtle vibrations of a place—the neighborhoods, small concerts, the out-of-the-way cafes and public parks. We crave simplicity. We don’t “collect” places. We don’t “do” countries.
I am sympathetic to communities who want to limit cruise ship visits. I am sad for people whose quality of life is seriously impacted by having too many visitors say YES to their invitations to visit. The economic dependence and the inherent tension that brings is difficult. I don’t want to contribute to it though I know sometimes I do.
All I can do is to think about these kind of things as we plan our travel. And tread as lightly as possible—knowing that the people in some of the travel hotspots have a love/hate relationship with tourists/tourism themselves.
Those are fantastic points! And I love that expression, the "subtle vibrations of a place." I think there's probably a term for this but I'd guess there is a strong correlation between the time one is able to spend in a place and the likelihood of visiting the popular tourist places. I know that when we lived in Steamboat Springs, CO, a resort ski town, we eventually learned how to avoid the crowds and find all the secret trails and true local spots.
Most folks who inhabit a place after awhile likely earn how to navigate away from the crowds and popular spots, but I suspect the psychology of only having a week in a place really incentivizes one to get as much out of their time as they can and so people often rationalize that they "must see" Machu Picchu if they're in Peru. You can almost hear people scolding someone for NOT visiting the site. It's interesting how some places have become these almost compulsive pilgrimages for tourists. Very fascinating stuff to reflect on.
I think that's why it's so important for one to be granted that opportunity to wander or nomad, like you say. I'm working on another post about why the U.S. still doesn't have a well-established cultural norm of the "gap year" and encouraging younger people to momentarily venture outside the usual trajectory of working, going school, or joining the military after high school.
It sounds like you've had an awesome time nomading. If you don't mind me asking, what was it that initially compelled you to do that, how long did you do this for, and what advice might you offer to encourage more people to take that opportunity if they can? In short, how do we instantiate a "gap year." I also, think I'd prefer it labeled a "nomad year" or have it be pluralized. Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts!
Laughing as I respond. I lived in Orlando for 10 years AND was on the Visit Orlando board. Somehow I managed to visit all the 23 major attractions but found the quieter, nature-based parts of the region as well.
I’m a BIG believer in adventuring when young, BEFORE the golden handcuffs softly click and you live in a world of bills and, if you’re lucky, 401ks. I urge every young person I know to take the leap! Both my husband (of 14 years now) and I have a shared history of taking that approach. Between the ages of 20 (college graduation) and 26, I was a go-go dancer in Alaska during the pipeline, an itinerant waitress, an actor and a traveler both domestically and internationally. I got my first “career’ job at the age of 26. Which led to 43 years in arts and humanities work. My husband worked in a head shop in Italy, hitchhiked through Europe, was a DJ, camp counselor, bartender, cab-driver and art teacher. His landed his first “career” job as a writer and graphic designer when he was 29. We talked about traveling on our first date in 2006. It evolved into a dream of slow travel which we’ve now done for 4 years.
The trick is being comfortable with being untethered. No grandchildren, no pets, no real estate, no parents. Being easily pleased coupled with a love of bewilderment and delight also helps. Live Your Life. Live Your Life.
A great up write up of a complicated topic.
My view of the issue is the same as my view of most of life -- there are pros and cons to everything, and no one or perfect answer.
We've seen the overtourims ourself up close and personal and hate it and try to avoid it.
Yet we also write about our travels, including the less well traveled places we veer toward as much as possible.
I think -- hope -- that the good of travel from better understanding other peoples and cultures, as well as the environment outweighs the bad.
Is that wishful thinking? Maybe.
But now into our seventh year of traveling full-time, I feel like I have a deeper and better understanding of the world than if we'd just stayed in the U.S.
Thank you Michael! I've also found framing things in terms of tradeoffs the most helpful. And I too agree and can't help but hope that the benefits of exploring the world outweigh the negatives. Thank you for engaging and sharing your thoughts. Safe and happy travels to you. Cheers!
I am a travel advisor. I have worked in travel and tourism since 1991, and it is an industry that employs a mind-blowing number of people, from back-of-the-house staff at hotels, cruise lines, airports, restaurants to the front facing staff like myself who plan travel for clients to flight attendants who are on planes for your safety. I work at a travel company that is part of one of the major consortia, Virtuoso, and I am a member of the Sustainability Community. The focus on this community is working with those companies who have a commitment to sustainable tourism.
Overtourism is a real problem and an ethical dilemma for those of us in the business. Venice has introduced a modest fee for day-trippers (5 euros) which I think isn't enough to help combat the problem. Overbuilt hotel zones (Nicoya peninsula in Costa Rica; anywhere you look on Maui; the Yucatan in Mexico; the area surrounding Puerto Vallarta; these are only a handful of locations) create more of a problem than we realize. People are told it helps the local economy, but does it? I was on a cruise pre-Covid in the Caribbean as an educational trip (experiencing the cruise line, some hotel inspections) but at one port, doing some local market shopping, I found many of the "authentic" items being sold actually were made in China and Southeast Asia. This is overtourism.
Ethical companies that practice sustainable tourism follow certain core principles: to celebrate culture, support local economies, and protect the planet. There are notable hotels that work toward restoring ecosystems: Ted Turner Reserves in New Mexico renew ecosystems that were damaged by logging, mining, and agriculture; Nayara Tented Camp near Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica has restored local rainforest which have allowed a focus on rewilding animals that had disappeared from the area - a return of sloths and monkeys, for example.
Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda is a shining example - the few hotels in that region have restored habitat that had been destroyed by coffee plantations which has seen an increase in population of the critically endangered Mountain Gorillas. While still endangered, their numbers are growing almost faster than habitat restoration can manage. Rwanda's Volcanoes National Park charges a hefty fee of $1500 per person per day to trek to see the gorillas, and strictly limits the number of permits issued on a given day. The guides, all hotel staff, are all from the local community and a huge amount of the hotel profits go back into the local community for schools and health clinics. The number of hotels and the size of the hotels is also strictly limited.
Not everyone who travels needs or wants to work with a travel advisor like myself. Frankly, far too many travel professionals are "agents", order-takers who rely on mass market cruises and all-inclusive massive resorts for their business. But those of us who take the time to research, and to pick and choose who we work with supporting companies that we know work sustainably, provide a service that is invaluable for a surprising number of people. Not all of us are the problem, although there are far too many who are. Part of my job is to educate my clients about the solutions. There are companies I will not work with at all. I actively support the ones who adhere to solutions.
This is a fantastic supplement with a lot of great information for all of us to reflect on! Given how varied the effects of tourism can be across the planet, I imagine that it is a monumental task to keep track of the basic travel information for all these destinations for prospective travelers and even more challenging to do it ethically and sustainably. Thank you for sharing your story and thank you for the services you provide Judith!
I think it's just pure laziness and greed to not do the research and support what's right. Kareem Abdul-Jabbar's substack today talks about the dangers of ignoring rising oceans - and frankly, this is one of the many things we need to focus on and how tourism can help combat climate disasters, because we can, and we should.
One of the reasons that I travel much less than I used to is that crowds make me cranky. The emptiest gallery in the museum is where you'll find me. It draws my interest BECAUSE it's empty.
Oh absolutely! I'm right there with you. Even if I go out to grab lunch and show up and there's a long line or a long wait, I'll do an about-face and go back home to settle for a PB&J at home. Ha!
Lol. In May I'm going to what is allegedly one of Italy's least visited major museums. Handwringing articles have been written bemoaning how (relatively) empty it is. I'm so excited I can't even tell you!
That sounds awesome! Years ago I was able to visit the National Archaeological Museum in Florence and recall it being nearly vacant on the day of my visit and it was incredible. I hope you enjoy your experience there. Cheers!
A really provocative and thoughtful piece that raises many questions that seem difficult if not impossible to answer.
I remember visiting Yosemite annually with my parents in the ‘50s and ‘60s. Many of the roads were narrow, 2-lane stretches with sheer drops on all sides that had my dad swearing as he skirted the perilous twists and turns. But there were no crowds on the trails to the glorious views. You might feel like you had discovered the place.
Something to be said for 1) bad roads, 2) fewer people 3) no social media to tempt the masses.
I almost never go to Yosemite anymore, especially the Valley, though I still think it one of the world’s great wonders. I don’t want to be crushed at what it’s become. Other parks we used to love have also become overrun, including Zion and Moab. It’s a shame.
Thank you! I've been thrilled to see the attention this piece is getting and I'm really enjoying everyone's comments. I have not been to Yosemite, but have visited in Zion and my wife and I used to visit Moab frequently when we lived in Colorado. I think we got lucky there because we didn't experience too many crowds. Zion, on the other hand, was extremely crowded. We were lucky to make it to the Angel's Landing trailhead very early in the morning and get up before the crowds and heat struck. It ended up being a wonderful experience, but so much of that seems to depend on crowd size. But even getting a backcountry permit in Zion was difficult.
As you say this issue of how to alleviate stress on crowded places seems intractable but I wonder how much might be resolved if we put more effort in to things like encouraging people to travel to lesser known public lands or to visit places in the off-season. I've been to Mesa Verde and Chaco Canyon in the off-season and it felt like I was the only one there so I know these things are possible in some places but I think getting more folks to spread out and experience lesser known places on other public lands could be part of the solution. But that also probably comes with a consideration of the downstream effects to those places as well. Thank you for taking the time to engage and share your experiences Ruth!
When researching my trip to Oahu, every blog seemed to be filled with the same 3-5 hikes, with all claiming that Diamond Head was a 'must do' while on the island. While I'm generally okay with each person decided whether or not to geotag and believe there are cases to be made for not doing so for safety and other things, I wonder if it would be more effective TO share other hikes- more lists, more ideas- top 15 hikes on Oahu instead of top 3... perhaps the special hike would have more than 4 people on it but it would likely not be crazy crowded since it doesn't offer amenities, paved paths, gift shop, etc. and maybe Diamond Head would be a little less crowded too.
I think that is a great point worth reflecting on more and ties into what I'm thinking about in terms of how we better orchestrate ways to spread more people out in a given area and what the consequences and ethics of that might be. To use Diamond Head (DH) as an example, if many travel blogs and advertisers started to deemphasize DH while also bragging up other places, would that help spreading people out? What might be the effects? I can't help but wonder about places that have established incentives. DH, I presume, now has an embedded structure with a predictable revenue stream, job securities, and so forth, so many places like this, at minimum, don't have much of an incentive to change and encourage visitors to go elsewhere if it will disrupt that structure even if they acknowledge how unbearable crowds may be to handle. So it relies on people outside the structure, as you say, to encourage travelers to spread out. But that still comes with unforeseen consequences that are difficult to predict to some extent.
I think there are several ways and ideas of travelling, there are people who look for adventures, some look for knowledge, others for Instagramable places, others for relaxation and everything organised, and some who can't afford to travel. Based on that there are different types of offers, and there are different types of travel bloggers too. I think travel bloggers should raise more awareness about these problems and topics, but it's also true that it is not the only puzzle piece.
Fair points! I agree that recognizing the diversity of ways we all engage with places is important to have in mind and I'm hopeful that we can continue to create a world that appeals to the kind of adventure each of us wants. I suspect a lot of it comes down to honing in on the concept of time management, i.e., the seasons and times people travel, both from the perspective of the individual planning their trips to any overarching bureaucracy that is in control of public lands. While I think a lot are already tackling this problem, we might envision a greater call to action from bloggers, travel advisors, and those overseeing public lands to encourage people to say travel in the off-season or perhaps advertise lesser known trails and points of interest that can accommodate a few more people in the hopes of spreading crowds out. As you say, it is definitely a puzzle.
such a thought provoking piece! I really, really enjoyed it! I grew up on Cape Cod (hello triple the population in the summer) and only getting worse, but we always knew where to go to avoid the crowds. I am sharing my guides on here and in my hero post I remarked: I can forge beyond crowds to find the raw, unspoiled, life affirming shores and dunes. but guess what? it takes work and planning to get there! and then I always encourage visits in the off season. i just visited Kennebunkport, Maine in February and what a lovely time to go! as far as Oahu - we hiked up on the north shore and our hike (that I also didn't share) sounded relatively similar to your secret hike. we parked at an elementary school and found the hidden path.... I'm into more of that! figuring out that there is a way for everyone to have unique experiences and less check it off the list.
Thank you! I'm thrilled to hear this. Absolutely, much work (and trial and error) is needed to figure out how to forge beyond the crowds, as you put it. Well said! I think encouraging visits in the off-season is key to discovering how remarkable many places are. Some of my best memories to some of our national parks are from times where I visited in the off-season. Thanks for sharing!
Great writing, as always. I'm going to talk to your father in law about doing a program for Rotary. he might have more pull now! Would love to talk when you've got a chance.
So will the best hikes be reserved for those who are "in the know"? I'm not sure that is a great solution.
We don't all want the same hiking experience. As observed in many of our national parks, many of us are most comfortable with the popular, crowded, short, paved trail. Most of us seem wired to follow the crowds to places like The Great Smoky Mountains NP while foregoing plenty of other appealing, nearby, hiking options.
Due to space, Hawaii is probably somewhat unique. But, back on the mainland, there is enough public land to drastically increase the infrastructure needed to provide additional, quality experiences ranging from short, paved, hikes to waterfalls or overlooks to week long, challenging, back country treks.
Whether that is a solution or not I don't know either but I think that is already the reality in a lot of places. When someone lives in a place, say Steamboat Spring, locals learn quickly how to avoid the crowds and likely keep the less traveled ski runs and trails to themselves but word quickly gets out eventually like with the hot springs which is now so crowded that it's incredibly challenging to even get a spot there anymore for visitors and locals alike (however being local there, I do have a secret about the place that I'll choose not to share at this time, wink wink).
That's a good point too. Not everyone is wanting the same experience, although I'd question whether many want to be bumper-to-bumper driving the loop in Yellowstone NP if they didn't have to. Maybe it all comes down to how we can engineer our time better. The paved route around the base of Devils Tower NM is often crowded but accessible and for those who want a longer, more isolated hike there are several others to choose from. Angels Landing in Zion NP is a good case in point too. It was an awesome hike the time we went but I'd argue was only great because we were fortunate to be able to get to it very early in the morning. Had we found ourselves there mid-day in the middle of the summer, it would have been crowded and miserable for most. Also, getting a backcountry permit there is even challenging and excludes even the most diligent planner.
I'd be hesitant to endorse the call for more infrastructure development on public lands though and would need to reflect more, but my initial thought is that ultimately leads to other downstream negative effects, e.g., more bureaucracy, added costs, destruction of the landscape.
If we believe that getting people out into nature is a public good (such as K-12 education) then government should make it happen. Much of it should happen, and is happening, at the local/state level. Multi use trails are being built and green spaces are being set aside. However, as indicated by crowd size, people also want more "wow" outdoor experiences. Part of that should involve coaxing some of the demand from the most popular spots to other existing parks/monuments/forests with excess capacity. However, in addition, while leaving wilderness areas untouched, government should add infrastructure so as to increase overall visitor capacity.
Always an interesting conversation. We were lucky, btw, and spent 2 months in Honolulu during our first year of nomadding. Feb and March of 2021 when it was relatively quiet. The trek to Diamond Head didn’t require a reservation and we walked there from our apartment. There were folks on the trail but not a swarm of them.
But, in response to your question, we find ourselves not really attracted to the “big” attractions or over-touristed areas. Even in Paris we lived in a quieter neighborhood and visited smaller museums and quiet parks (to be fair, it was our 4th time there). In Barcelona, we lived a few blocks from the Sagrada but didn’t go. We have no interest in Machu Picchu or Angkor Wat. Bali Hai isn’t calling to us. We went to Venice years ago and don’t want or need to go again. We don’t want to join the throngs going to Antarctica (and can’t afford it anyway). I was lucky enough to see the pyramids and the Acropolis when I was young. This is not a calculated moral stance as much as a desire to avoid crowds and lines. We lean towards the subtle vibrations of a place—the neighborhoods, small concerts, the out-of-the-way cafes and public parks. We crave simplicity. We don’t “collect” places. We don’t “do” countries.
I am sympathetic to communities who want to limit cruise ship visits. I am sad for people whose quality of life is seriously impacted by having too many visitors say YES to their invitations to visit. The economic dependence and the inherent tension that brings is difficult. I don’t want to contribute to it though I know sometimes I do.
All I can do is to think about these kind of things as we plan our travel. And tread as lightly as possible—knowing that the people in some of the travel hotspots have a love/hate relationship with tourists/tourism themselves.
Those are fantastic points! And I love that expression, the "subtle vibrations of a place." I think there's probably a term for this but I'd guess there is a strong correlation between the time one is able to spend in a place and the likelihood of visiting the popular tourist places. I know that when we lived in Steamboat Springs, CO, a resort ski town, we eventually learned how to avoid the crowds and find all the secret trails and true local spots.
Most folks who inhabit a place after awhile likely earn how to navigate away from the crowds and popular spots, but I suspect the psychology of only having a week in a place really incentivizes one to get as much out of their time as they can and so people often rationalize that they "must see" Machu Picchu if they're in Peru. You can almost hear people scolding someone for NOT visiting the site. It's interesting how some places have become these almost compulsive pilgrimages for tourists. Very fascinating stuff to reflect on.
I think that's why it's so important for one to be granted that opportunity to wander or nomad, like you say. I'm working on another post about why the U.S. still doesn't have a well-established cultural norm of the "gap year" and encouraging younger people to momentarily venture outside the usual trajectory of working, going school, or joining the military after high school.
It sounds like you've had an awesome time nomading. If you don't mind me asking, what was it that initially compelled you to do that, how long did you do this for, and what advice might you offer to encourage more people to take that opportunity if they can? In short, how do we instantiate a "gap year." I also, think I'd prefer it labeled a "nomad year" or have it be pluralized. Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts!
Laughing as I respond. I lived in Orlando for 10 years AND was on the Visit Orlando board. Somehow I managed to visit all the 23 major attractions but found the quieter, nature-based parts of the region as well.
I’m a BIG believer in adventuring when young, BEFORE the golden handcuffs softly click and you live in a world of bills and, if you’re lucky, 401ks. I urge every young person I know to take the leap! Both my husband (of 14 years now) and I have a shared history of taking that approach. Between the ages of 20 (college graduation) and 26, I was a go-go dancer in Alaska during the pipeline, an itinerant waitress, an actor and a traveler both domestically and internationally. I got my first “career’ job at the age of 26. Which led to 43 years in arts and humanities work. My husband worked in a head shop in Italy, hitchhiked through Europe, was a DJ, camp counselor, bartender, cab-driver and art teacher. His landed his first “career” job as a writer and graphic designer when he was 29. We talked about traveling on our first date in 2006. It evolved into a dream of slow travel which we’ve now done for 4 years.
The trick is being comfortable with being untethered. No grandchildren, no pets, no real estate, no parents. Being easily pleased coupled with a love of bewilderment and delight also helps. Live Your Life. Live Your Life.